Izgubljena palaca u Lisabonu i starinski dzem od grozdja sa orasima / Forgotten palace in Lisbon and old grape jam with walnuts

 

 

 

 

 

Zivim u Lisabonu 10 godina. I malo vise. No jos uvijek mi se desi da zastanem u cudu kada otkrijem blago koje mi se do sada skrivalo pod nosom.  U ulici Portas de Santo Antão, u samom turistickom centru grada nalazi se neugledna fasada, sa jos neuglednijim neonskim natpisom - Casa do Alentejo -.

 

 

I live in Lisbon for 10 years. And a little more. But still it happens that by miracle I discover the unknown  treasure that was standing in front of my nose all this years.  The street Portas de Santo Antao, in tourist center of the town, is hiding  - Casa do Alentejo-. This palace is hidden behind facade that says nothing and horrible neon placard.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nakon sto odskrinete teska vrata i oci se priviknu na tamnu, teba se uspeti kamenim stepenicama. I tada ulazite u jedan drugi svijet. Svijet ispunjen arapskim motivima, prepun svijetla i vegetacije koja savrseno upotpunjuje dozivljaj

 

 

First you need to open heavy door  and let the eyes adjust to the dark, than climb the stone stairs. And then you enter to the another world. World that is fulfilled with arab motifs, full of light and vegetation that perfectly complements the experience.

 

 

 

 

 

Palaca je gradjena u 17. stoljecu i do danas je prezivjela nekoliko novih vlasnika. Osim prvotnih vlasnika obitelji Paes de Amaral, ovdje se tijekom povijesti nalazila skola, zatim jedan od prvih lisabonskih kazina "O Majestic Club" 1919.

The palace was built in the 17th century and has survived a few new owners. Original owner's were family Paes de Amaral, than school came, then one of the first Lisbon casino "O Majestic Club" in 1919.

 

 

U to vrijeme palaca je vecim dijelom preuredjena, te poprima danasnji izgled. 1932. useljavaju novi stanovnici - Udruga Alentejo - kojoj je svrha promocija i unapredjenje Alenteja kao regije, te njena industrijska i ekonomska ekspanzija.

At that time the palace was largely revamped, and assumed its present appearance. 1932. new resident came - Association of Alentejo - which had a purpose to promote Alentejo region and its industrial and economic expansion.

Danas ovdje mozete probati neke od poznatih jela tipicnih za Alentejo, kusati jaka, crna vina, te kupiti lokalne suvenire u manjem ducanu. Ili jednostavno prosetati palacom, procitati danasnje novine u citaonici, popiti kavu i rjesiti sudoku. Izgubiti se u vremenu i prostoru.

 

Here today you can try some of the famous dishes typical of the Alentejo, strong tastes, red wines, buy local souvenirs in a small shop. Or simply walk through the Palace, read today's newspapers in the reading room, drink coffee and solve sudoku. You can lose yourself in time and space.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 U tijeku su restauracijski radovi na unutarnjoj fasadi. No sve je u tisini. Jedini zamor dolazi od grupe spanjolskih studenata koji u klaustru slusaju kratko predavanje vodica.

 

Restoration works on the inner facade are in progress. All in silence. The only fatigue comes from a group of Spanish students in the cloister.

 

 

Nakon sto obidjete donji dio i stepenicama se popnete na prvi kat, unutrasnjost postaje jos neobicnija. Arapske mozaike, palme i kolonijalni vrtni namjestaj, zamjenjuje barokna raskos i kristalni lusteri. Na gorenjem katu nalaze se 3 velike sale. Citaonica, Salon za predstave i Restoran sa kuhinjom. U salonu poznati poruglaski casopis snima editorijal za bozicno izdanje - malo provirih iako je bilo kao zabranjeno.

After seeing a downer part, I climb the stairs to the first floor. Here the interior becomes even more outlandish. Arab mosaics, palms and colonial garden furniture were replaced with Baroque luxury and crystal chandeliers. At the upper floor are 3 large rooms: reading room, lounge and restaurant with kitchen.
In the lounge, well known Portuguese magazine was shooting Christmas edition -  it was forbidden, but I peeked a little.

 

 

 

I onda - u tisini otvaram sljedeca vrata. Polumrak, i miris limuna. Ispred mene dvorana dostojna kraljevskih odaja.

 

And then - in silence I opened next door. The gloom and the smell of lemon. Hall in front of me worthy of royal chambers.

 

 

 

 

Istina, unutarnje stukature su vidjele i bolja vremena. No upravo to, upravo to nesavrsenstvo daje posaban sarm nekog davnog, izgubljenog vremena koje danas mozemo dozivjeti samo na filmu. Ovo je prostor toliko drugaciji od drugih. I da biste ovdje rucali il vecerali nije potrebno obuci svilene haljine i crni frak, mada protiv istih nemam nista protiv.

True, interior stucco had seen better days. But just that, just that imperfections give special charm of an ancient, lost time, that today we can experience only in movies. This space is so different from others. To have lunch here or dinner you don’t need silk dresses and black tuxedos, although I do not have anything against them.

 

 

Na meniju tipicna alentejanska hrana - to je jos jedan elemenat koji me ostavlja u cudu. Tipicna alentejanska hrana je tezacka, robusna, vrlo cesto spoj onoga sto se u tom trenu imalo u kuci. Bogata okusom, no cesto sirotinjska. Toliko daleko od bogatih stolova plemica i ustirkanih damastnih stoljnjaka. Nekako alentejansku hranu smjestavam u malene taverne i omanje restorane, nikako u grandiozne palace.

 

On the menu you can find typical food from Alentejo - this is another element that surprises me. Typical food from that area is simple, working class type of meals, very often a combination of what was at that moment in the house. Rich in flavor, but simple. So far away from wealthy and aristocratic tables with damask tablecloths. Somehow, I connect Alentejo food with homey tavern and small restaurants, definitely not with grand palace.

 

 

 

Provedoh u palaci citav sat. Slikajuci, i zaboravih pogledati na ulazu koje su cijene jela....Nisam ovdje rucala, jer sam imala dogovoreno na drugom mjesto. Pisuci ovaj post dadoh si truda i procitah komentare na nekoliko turistickih portala, te dok sama ne probam sto se nudi, preporucam slijedece:

 

I spend an hour walking around, taking pictures, sitting on the floor and in the end - forgot to look at the prices of food .... I didn’t had lunch here, because I had some other plans. While writing this story I made and effort and spent some time reading the comments on food and service by tourists who did eat.  The recommendation is following:

 

 

 

 

Udjite, obidjite, dozivite nesto sasvim drugo, popite kavu i rucajte negdje drugdje. Komentari bas i nisu na nivou. Pa zasto da vam dozivljaj okusa pokvari dozivljaj vida!

 

Come in, visit, experience something completely different, have a coffee and dine elsewhere. Comments are not exactly on the level. So why should you spoil your sight experience with bad taste experience!

 

 

 

U medjuvremenu dok cekate dolazak u Lisabon, pripravite jedan starinski alentejanski recept - bagulhada - dzem od grozdja, dunje i oraha. Apsolutno je fantastican!

 

In the meantime, while waiting arrival in Lisbon, prepare an old fashioned recipe from Alentejo - bagulhada - grape jam, quince and walnut. It is absolutely fantastic!

 

 

Potrebno je:

1 kg grozdja (bijelog il crnog il mjesano)

1 zrela dunja

500 g secera

kora od 1/2 narance

100 g oraha

Grozdje dobro oprati i izvaditi kostice Staviti da se kuha oko 1/2 sata. U medjuvremenu ocistiti dunju od kore i kore, te narezati na ploske. Kada grozdje omekani, dodati narezanu dunju, secer i koru narance. Ostaviti da se kuha. Nakon sat vremena izvaditi koru od narance i stapnim mikserom malo usitniti slatko. Dodati nasitno narezane orahe i staviti u sterilizirane staklenke.

You will need:

 

1 kg grapes
1 quince
500 g sugar

ripe of 1/2 orange
  100 g  walnuts

 

Wash grapes and remove the seeds. Put to cook for 30 min. Wash the quince, wipe the peel and seeds, and cut it into small cubes. Put quince, sugar and orange ripe together with grapes and cook for an hour. Stir well and bring to a simmer until the point of the road. Add finely chopped walnuts.

 

 

 

Ovo nije dzem za palacinke, vec kao i slatko od bundeve, odlicno pase iz neki jaki sir i krekere.

This is not jam for pancakes, but as pumpkin sweet, goes well with some strong cheese and crackers.

Jesenja slikovnica uz jedan zen trenutak....brazilski kolac od kukuruza* Autumn in pictures, one zen moment and brazilian corn cake

 

 

 

 

Postoji nesto nestvarno u jesenjim predvecerjima, petkom, negde oko pet popodne. U ono doba kada sunce polako zamace za vrh planine, a u zraku treperi lagana izmaglica.... Na dalekom sjeveru pristavlja se voda za caj, unose u kucu teske cjepanice i priprema kamin. U kutu upaljena svjetiljka iz proslog stoljeca, na stolici nehajno odbacen prekrivac sa skotskim uzorkom.

 

 

There is something surreal in autumn eve, especially on Fridays, somewhere around five in the afternoon. Sun is slowly moving out of sigh on the top of a mountain and in the air - mist is dancing.... In the far north, people are puting water for tea, bringing into the house heavy logs for fireplace. In the corner lamp bought in the last century, on a chair a blanket with scottish pattern .

 

 

Kroz prozor gotovo narnijski prizor. Zaledjeno jezero, ogoljela stabla i visoki, zeleni borovi. Na sjevernoj strani koprena zelene, guste mahovine. U zraku miris vlaznog tla koji se prisuljao u godovima donesenih cjepanica i opojni miris crnog caja. Bakine bijele zavijese, donesene u mirazu, ponosno stoje i kroz cipkane zavrsetke, poput paukove mreze hvataju poslijednje sunceve zrake.

 

Through the window almost Narnian scene. Frozen lakes, barren trees and tall green pines. On the northern side - veil of green, thick moss. In the air, the smell of moist soil that entered hidden into tree rings and the scent of black tea. Grandma's white curtains, brought ​​in dowry, are standing proudly and trough the lacy endings, like a spider net, it looks like a last attempt to catch the rays of sun.

 

 

 

 

Iako na razlicitim stranama svijeta, u razlicitim kucama i okucnicama, ljudi razlicitih sudbina i ostvarenih zivota streme i cekaju isti osjecaj. Onaj iskonski, uvijek prizeljkivani i uvijek prekratak. Vikend proveden sa unukom. Na vrtnom stolu sakupljeni orasi, i kosara koja ceka. U glavi milion ideja i dzep prepun gumenih bombona.

Although on different sides of the world, in different houses and yards, people of different fates and realized lifes are striving and waiting for the same feeling. The primeval, always desired and always short. Weekend spent with granddaughter. On the garden table, gathered nuts, and baskets that are waiting. On her mind a million ideas and pocket full of gummi bears.

 

 

Vrijeme je povratka kuci. Udaranjem o zeleni zvon, ostarijeli cuvar skole dao je znak zavrsetka nastave. Uskoro veseli poklici proparahu uspavani smiraj dana. Danas je petak. Zadnji dan skole. Na vrhovima planine nazire se snjeg. Mozda i zabijeli preko vikenda. 

Omanji djecarac, Tobias, nabrzinu mahne djecacima i uzurbanim korakom pohita preko mosta. Ka bakinoj kuci. Vec je vidio djeda kroz prozor skole, kako hita kuci sa svijezim perecima i malim, bijelim zamotuljkom. Tko zna, mozda je baka ispekla kestene i jabuke i .... Bolje da pozurim, pomisli djecak zadovoljno se smjeseci, zamisljajuci sve igre i nestasluke koje ce sutra on i djed, zajedno, smisliti.

 

It is time to return home. Hitting the green bell, old school guardian signaled the end of classes. Soon joyful din acclaimes trough sleepy sunset. Today is Friday, last day of school. The tops of the mountains are covered by snow. Maybe over the weekend it's going to snow in the village too.

A small boy, Tobias, waved to his friends. And then started to hurry over the bridge. To grandmother's house. He had seen his grandfather through the school window before, on a way back home with fresh pretzels and a small, white bundle. Who knows, maybe the grandmother baked chestnuts and apples .... You better hurry up, the boy thought smiling happily, imagining all the games and pranks that he will do tomorrow with his grandfather. Just to of them. Together.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Na brazilskim obalama vjetar iz daljine donosi teske oblake. Sve mirisi na kisu, jednu od onih koje donose lose vijesti il bol u kostima. Izgleda kao sudnji dan. Dona Estefania zazvoni srebrnim zvoncem, vrijeme je za caj. Nakon nekoliko trenutaka otvore se vrata i djevojka u ustirkanoj halji unese caj i kukuruzni kolac. Lagano se nasmijesi i necujno izadje pracena skriputavim zvukom starog, drvenog poda. Dona Estefania zatvori oci, pomirise vruci napitak, kao da pokusava upiti sve arome koje su cajevi listici sakupili na putovanju do njenog dnevnog boravka.

Na prozoru teske kapi kise, a u daljini duga. "Mozda se prevarih, mozda je vrijeme za dobre vrijesti!" - prosapuce i zagrize u meku, zutu nutrinu jos toplog kolaca. Odjednom otvore se vrata i u narucje joj dotrci crnokosa djevojcica. Glasni poljubac i veseli smijeh. Dobro je, Eva je stigla na vikend.

 

On the Brazilian shore wind is bringing heavy clouds. Everything smells on rain, one of those that come together with a bad news or pain in the bones. It looks like a judgment day. With a little silver bell, Dona Estefania announces, it is a tea time. After some moments young lady in starched white dress brings tea and corn cake. A glimpse of a smile and followed by a sound of old wooden floor, she is gone. Dona Estefania closed her eyes and smells the hot drink. Almost like she was trying to absorb all the aromas that little tea leaves gathered on the travel from Indian fields to her living room.

At the window, heavy drops of rain, in the distance a rainbow is inking. "Maybe I was wrong after all, maybe good news are coming." - she whispered and bits into the soft, still warm cake.

Suddenly, someone opened a door and small girl came into her arms. Loud kiss and joyful laugh. Everything is good, Eva came for a weekend.

 

***

 

 

 Za braziski kolac od kukuruznog brasna - Bolo de fuba - biti ce vam potrebno:

 

For Brazilian corn bread cake - Bolo de Fuba - you will need:

 

 

 

 

* salica - 200ml

3 veca jaja
1 salica mlijeka
1 salica fino mljevenog kukuruznog brasna
1 salica psenicnog brasna
1 salica ulja (koristila sam samo 2/3)
1 1/2 salica secera
1 jusna zlica praska za pecivo
2 jusne zlice ribanog sira ili ribanog kokosa - po zelji

Od bjelanjaka napraviti snjeg i polako dodati secer. Nakon toga dodati zutanjke i polako promjesati. Uliti mlijeko i ulje, promjesati, te spatulom lagano primjesati kukuruzno i psenicno brasno. Na kraju dodati prasak za pecivo i sir/kokos. Preliti smjesu u namascenu i pobrasnjenu (kukuruznim brasnom) formu za kolace. Staviti u predhodno zagrijanu pecnicu na 180C oko 40-50 minuta ovisno i pecnici.
Fubá - je fino mljeveno kukuruzno brasno. Nazalost, ne znam koliko je fino mljeveno kukuruzno brasno u Hr, stoga, ono kupite ono najfinije, te ga jos malo sameljite u mikseru za kavu il sl.

* cup - 200ml

3 larger eggs
1 cup milk
1 cup finely ground corn flour
1 cup wheat flour
1 cup oil (I used only 2/3)
1 1/2 cups sugar
1 tablespoon baking powder
2 tablespoons of grated cheese or grated coconut - to taste

Separate the eggs. With hand or electric beater, beat the egg whites to soft peak stage. Add the sugar and continue to beat. While beating add the egg yolks one at a time, followed by the butter and milk, then the flour and cornmeal, a bit at a time. Finally add the baking powder, then beat for one more minute. Add coconut or cheese if u like.
Grease a cake pan with softened butter, then dust with corn flour. Pour the cake batter into the pan, place in a preheated 350 degree oven for 40 to 50 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the middle of the cake comes out clean.

Turn out the cake onto a wire grid, and let cool completely. Once cooled, you can sprinkle the top of the cake with powdered sugar, if desired.

 

 

Za one trenutke kada je potrebno malo carolije - kompot od dunja, vina i dzumbira * For those moments when magic is desired - quince and ginger compote

Postoje neki dani kada je porebno posegnuti za malo magije. Otvoriti vrata, prastarog hrastova ormara, ciji se teski vonj proteze udaljenim hodnikom sjecanja i izvaditi carobni stapic. Otresti sa njega nakupljenu prasinu i nepozeljne bube i zamahnuti jako. Toliko jako da jedan ostri shshshshsh ostane lebdjeti u zraku, dugo nakon sto je ruka zastala.

Takvi trenuci najcesce se javljaju u jesen. Tada dani postaju kraci, jutra siva i ogoljela, nestaje sarene carolije predivnih ljetnih predvecerja i u ljudima se javljaju teski koraci, teske misli.

There are some days when you need to reach for a little magic. Open the door, the ancient oak cabinets, whose heady scent corridor extends remote memories and pull out a magic wand. Shake accumulated dirt and undesirable bugs and swing it. So strong that one sharp shshshshsh remain suspended in the air long after the hand stopped. Such events usually occur in the fall. And the days get shorter, the morning is gray and stark, colorful spells of a beautiful summer eve is gone and people appear with a heavy footsteps, heavy thoughts.

 

 

 

Tada je nabolje urediti svoj skromni dom prikladno miru koji se cuti. Pospremiti snjezno bijele skoljke koje bi nas mogle podsjetiti na ono sto vise nije, i okrenuti se sa veseljem toplim tonovima pristigle jeseni. Vrijeme je da se izvade meki pokrivaci, nabrzinu pospremljene svijece i treperave lampice. Vrijeme je da se iz omiljenog cajnika siri miris teskog, crnog caja koji poziva na lutanja magicnim putevima dugih zimskih noci.

 

The best cure is to decorate you modest home by the peace that you desire. Save a snowy white shells that might remind us of what we no longer have, and turn to the warm tones of arrived autumn. Time to pull out the soft blanket, candles and trebly  lights. It's time to get out your favorite teapot that smells of heavy, black tea, that invites you to hit the magical roads of the long winter nights.

 

 

U tim posebnim trenucima potrebno je zadovoljiti sva cula. Mene jesen uvijek iznova odvede na putovanje mokrim ulicama Zagreba , i tada .... carolijom obavijem osmijeh, zatvorim kovceg srebrnim katancem i odlutam na pocetak.

In these special moments, it is necessary to satisfy all the senses. The fall always takes me on a journey to the wet streets of Zagreb, and then .... I disguise my smile with magic,  I close my suitcase with a silver padlock and I wander off to the beginning.

 

 

 

 

 

Kratko kucanje na vratima i zvuk koraka na drvenom podu.

- " Dobro vece, udji brzo, sjedi, odmah cu.....!" - i nestade u mirisu djumbira i melise ....

 

Vrijeme je carolije, sakrivenih osmjeha i nikad naglas izrecenih zelja. Vrijeme je zapisa na pozutjelom papiru savijenog 7 puta. Okusa dugih, kisnih noci i zvuka poslijednjeg tramvaja za Savu.

Sa stola lijevo tanani trag dima, sa stola desno veseli plam svijece. U kotlicu vriju dunje, vino i tko zna jos sto. Ne pitam. U zraku zvonki smijeh i zvuk ciganske violine ...

 

- "Otvori prozor, otvori prozor - vrijeme je!!!!...." - i prospe se carobni prah po vremenskoj stazi, i zastanu ljudi i stade kisa. Ja stojim pred ulazom, dlanovi mi prepuni tvog svijeta, pokisla do koze, a u dusi mir.

 

- "Dobro mi dosla....u jesen mog zivota. Udji i ostani...!" - lagani naklon i neuspjesno sakriven mjesec u oku...

 

I rusi se svijet od karata na pragu tvoga doma....

 

Short knock on the door and the sound of footsteps on the wooden floor. - "Good evening, enter quickly, sit, I'll will come  ....." - And she was gone in the aroma of  ginger and lemon balm ....
It is time of magic, hidden smiles and never loudly pronounced desires. It's time of a inscription written on the yellowed paper and folded 7 times. It is time of long flavors, rainy nights and the sounds of the last tram that goes to river Sava.
From the table to the left the tiny trail of smoke, from the table to the right cheerful flame of candle. In the cauldron boiling quince, wine and who knows yet what. Do not ask. In the air reverberant sound of laughter and gypsy violins ...

- "Open the window, open the window - it's time!! ...." - And the magic powder has been spelt per track timeline, and people are motionless and the rain stopped.

I'm standing on your doorstep, palms full your world, soaked to the skin, with peace in my soul.
- "You're very welcome .... in the autumn of my life. Come and stay ..." - A slight bow and unsuccessfully hidden Moon that reflects in your eye ...

And the world of cards collapse on the doorstep of your home...

* * *

 

 

 

 

 

 

Osim carobnog kotlica, najlijepseg osmjeha i dzaka punog ljubavi , za kompot od dunja i dzumbira biti ce vam potrebno i:

 

Besides the magical cauldron, most beautiful smile and sack full of love  for a compote of quince and ginger will be required as follows: 

 

 

                                     750 ml bijelog vina                                      

400 ml vode

300 gr secera

svijezi dzumbir (oko 5 cm)

1 kg oguljenih i ociscenih dunja

1 jusna zlica limunovog soka

1 stapic cimeta

 

 

Vino,secer, na trake narezani dzumbir i cimet staviti u lonac da zakipi. Nakon sto se secer otopi dodati na kriske narezane dunje. Kuhati dok dunje potpuno ne omeksaju. Ako je potrebno dodati jos vode. Kada su dunje omeksale, prebaciti ih u drugu posudu, a tekucinu ostaviti jos malo da kipi. Naposlijetku izvaditi dzumbir i dodati sok od limuna. Preliti dunje sirupom. Moze se jesti toplo ili hladno, a u frizideru prezivljava do 2 tjedna (a mozda i dulje....)

750 ml white wine
400 ml of water
300 grams of sugar
fresh ginger (about 5 cm)
1 kg peeled and cleaned quince
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 cinnamon stick

Wine, sugar, sliced ginger and cinnamon stick put in a pot to boil. After the sugar has melted add the sliced ​​quince slices. Reduce heat, and simmer gently until quinces are tender, 25 to 45 minutes. Cook until the quince is completely soft. If necessary add more water. When quinces are soggy, transfer them to a bowl. Bring liquid in saucepan to a simmer, and cook until slightly syrupy, about 5 minutes. Remove, and discard ginger. Stir in lemon juice. Pour syrup over quinces. It can be eaten hot or cold, in the refrigerator up to 2 weeks survives (and maybe more ....).